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A steamy mixture of mountain forest and savanna-like grassland, Gal Oya is dwelling, most excitingly, to elephants and leopards. We have been staying on the Gal Oya Lodge, a new eco-resort on the park’s perimeter. On our jeep sorties into the forest, Damien Mario, the lodge’s resident naturalist, raked the comb continuously along with his binoculars, attempting to spot hid beasts, but we had no luck. However, Mario was chipper. It felt like a blessing even to be right here. This park was closed off for a …